Cross Country Adventure - Day 5 - Memphis to Ozark, AR

Day 5, we got off to an early start as we planned to spend a few hours in Little Rock en route to Ozark, Arkansas. After driving through an industrial area west of Memphis we crossed the Mississippi into Arkansas. Flat farmlands stretched for miles in all directions. Needing to fill up the gas tank we came off the I-40 at Forrest City, where we spotted an interesting looking cafe and decided to have a breakfast. 

The Ole Sawmill Cafe offered a wonderful buffet breakfast - sausage, egg, pancakes, biscuits and gravy - and friendly service. After that we were set for the day!

By midday we were in Little Rock. First we took a look at the State Capitol. Given it was a Monday the area around the Capitol building was so quiet we wondered whether the government was on vacation. Or maybe it was the heat and we were the only ones foolish enough to go out in it.

Little Rock State Capitol

The steps of the Capitol offered some good views of downtown Little Rock and the empty roads.

View of downtown from Little Rock State Capitol

Our main reason for stopping at Little Rock though was to visit Central High School which, in 1957, became a symbol of conflict over school desegregation. When nine African-American students tried to attend the school following the US Supreme Court ruling on desegregation, they faced white mob violence in an attempt to dissuade them and were initially refused entry. It was only when President Eisenhower authorized the use of federal troops to protect the students that they were finally admitted.  

The school is now a National Historic Site and we took a tour offered by the National Park Service to learn more about the Little Rock Nine, as the students are now known.  Listening to what the students had to contend with once they were admitted, including bullying, physical violence, even death threats, made us realize how courageous the students must have been. It certainly wasn't an atmosphere conducive to learning. I left the tour disturbed and wondering what it is in the human psyche that allows people to behave so cruelly towards others.





A cabinet just inside the main entrance of the school shows photos of the students both in 1957 and more recently. Eight of the students are still alive and two still live in Little Rock. Several of them wrote books about their experience, one of which, Warriors Don't Cry by Melba Pattillo Beals, was assigned reading for the students at the school.

Our next stop was at the Clinton Presidential Library. Exhibits include memorabilia from Clinton's early life as well as his time in the White House, including a replica of the Oval Office as it was under his presidency and the Cabinet Room. His eight years of presidency are detailed on display boards representing each year. Obviously, the boards present his presidency in the best light, but I have to admit feeling saddened by the contrast between the way America was regarded then compared to today.

Clinton Presidential Library

The library also had a music exhibit called Louder than Words which is a fascinating insight into how rock and roll has influenced attitudes especially with regard to politics, peace and civil rights. Costumes, instruments and even handwritten drafts of famous songs are on display from stars ranging from Bob Dylan and Aretha Franklin to Madonna.

Outside of the presidential library is an attractive small park with a wooden walkway around wetlands. The walkway offers views of an old iron railroad bridge across the Arkansas River which has been turned into a pedestrian bridge.  

Bill Clinton Wetland Park

The former Rock Island Railway Bridge 

Despite the heat, there was one more sight we wanted to see in Little Rock and that was the Big Dam Bridge. Yes, that is really its name! It was built in 2007 and is the longest bridge built specifically for pedestrians and bicycles. It was meant to be called something else but an offhand comment during the construction process about the size of the bridge over the dam stuck.

view looking toward the Big Dam Bridge

We only walked halfway across the bridge, partly due to lack of time and partly due to the heat. Even at 6 pm it was scorching.  But the walk was worth it for the views.

view from the center of the Big Dam View 

Then it was time to get back in the car for the two hour drive to our evening's accommodation, a delightful airBnB in Ozark, Arkansas.  By chance, my daughter had a friend who was also visiting the area and so we arranged to meet in one of the two bars in Ozark. The place was almost deserted (it was a Monday evening) but no sooner had we sat down than one of the few locals came over and introduced himself saying "my name is Hank but everyone calls me Hillbilly."  We were definitely in small town Arkansas!

Speakeasy Grill, Ozark, AR