Cross Country Adventure - Day 4 - Nashville to Memphis TN

 Day 4 of our adventure started with enormous cinnamon buns for breakfast at Barista Parlor in East Nashville, an eclectic cafe complete with motor bikes and vintage cars.

Then it was back on the road again, this time for the relatively short drive to Memphis, Tennessee.

One of our first sights in Memphis was the gleaming structure of The Pyramid, which originally was an arena but now is home to a shopping mall, hotel and restaurants. 

Memphis Pyramid

But, fortunately, Memphis has not been completely modernised. Our first stop was for lunch at the Arcade Restaurant, a diner which opened in 1919 and is now the oldest restaurant in the city. The food was delicious. 

The Lorraine Motel 

After lunch, it was time to get serious with a dose of history. Our first stop was the National Civil Rights Museum based at the Lorraine Motel - the motel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. The exhibition traces the history of civil rights from the 17th century to the present day and is so extensive that you could easily spend a day there. It is a fascinating museum, well worth a visit.

A wreath outside room 306 of the motel marks the spot where MLK Jr. was assassinated.

The museum has many permanent exhibits highlighting the courage and fortitude of those involved in the struggle for equal rights.

Rosa Parks' bus protest

1960's students' sit-in at lunch counters

From there we moved on to history of a different sort with a tour of Sun Studio, the recording studio where stars such as B.B. King, Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash got their start. Led by an enthusiastic tour guide, the tour covers the history of the studio, gives you a chance to see the recording studio where all the stars recorded their songs, and includes snippets of some of the early recordings. We heard Elvis' first ever recording of "That's All Right (Mama)" and part of a jamming session that took place one day when Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis all happened to be in the studio at the same time! 

Sun Records was set up by Sam Phillips who had originally worked as a DJ for an Alabama radio station. His studio at the radio station has been recreated in the museum:

Sam Phillips' DJ studio

Other exhibits include the first recording system used by the studio:

Howlin' Wolf memorabilia

A fun fact: while you might assume Elvis Presley would be Sam Phillips' greatest discovery, Phillips considered that Howlin' Wolf was his greatest and that Elvis was his second! (As a fan of Howlin' Wolf, I can understand that!)

Memphis is also home to the Blues Hall of Fame, which sadly we didn't have enough time to visit on this trip. (I shall have to visit again one day, ideally not on a Sunday when opening hours are limited.) 

But if I couldn't take in more history of the blues, I could at least listen to some live blues on Beale Street. Bars line both sides of the road, each pumping out live music, some with open windows so you could sample the music before making your choice as to whether to go in. Crowds thronged the  

street which had been turned into a pedestrian-only thoroughfare. 

Early evening on Beale Street

The atmosphere on the street was friendly and fun, much nicer in my opinion than Bourbon Street in New Orleans. The only problem was deciding which of the bars to visit. We eventually settled on Silky O'Sullivans with its huge outdoor patio, wonderful blues music and resident goats!

Silky O'Sullivans' resident goat

It was a gorgeous warm evening, so as darkness fell, we wandered among the crowds, taking in the neon-lights before heading to the Blues Hall, a tiny bar featuring the Memphis Blues Masters - great music to end a fabulous day. 

Beale Street after dark

Mel writes contemporary fiction with a twist of mystery and suspense. For more information about her books visit her website, or sign up for her newsletter at http://bit.ly/melparishnews