Walking the Northumberland Coastal Path - Day 2 - Alnmouth to Howick

                                                                                  

After a good night's rest at the Schooner Hotel, day 2 of our walk began with a stroll along the main street in Alnmouth.

The village dates back to 1150 and most of it was designated a conservation area in 1972. In 2020 Conde Nast Traveler rated it among the 20 most beautiful villages in the UK and Ireland.  

Alnmouth Village Golf Club sits between the village and the beach. Established in 1869,  it is the fourth oldest course in England.  It certainly has beautiful views. 

The view from the village across the golf course to the beach.

We hadn't been walking long when the gray clouds started to look distinctly more threatening. 

Talk about changeable weather!

On the beaches and clifftop, remains of World War II fortifications dot the landscape, but the gun battery below was actually built in 1852 by the Duke of Northumberland who feared a French invasion. 

But there was nothing old about the charming small campsite further along the clifftop. 

This looks like my idea of camping!

Further on, a picturesque tunnel through the trees helped distract somewhat from the uphill gradient.

But then it was back out into the open. 

With a meadow of purple wildflowers on the left.

Three miles from Alnmouth is the village of Boulmer, a tiny fishing village, so small it doesn't even have a shop. But of course, being an English village, it does have a pub. Which was just as well for us, because no sooner had we got into Boulmer than the skies opened in another torrential downpour. Unfortunately, we got into Boulmer just after eleven and the bar didn't open until twelve, so we had to take refuge in an old stone bus shelter in the interim! The state of the interior suggested it's main occupants were birds, but it was better than getting soaked yet again.

The Fishing Boat Inn

It was worth the wait. The Fishing Boat Inn is a friendly place with excellent food. It was only a shame we couldn't enjoy their outdoor patio with wonderful sea views. Maybe next time! Not surprisingly several people who came in also looked like walkers taking refuge from the rain. By the time we'd finished our lunch, the rain had stopped but just as we were about to leave it started again. We took that as a sign that we should have another drink. 

Finally, we got back out on the path. 

Flat and low, the path was easy to walk.

And within twenty minutes we had blue skies again!

Sometimes it felt as if we had the path all to ourselves. 

At times it headed in across moorland

But regular glimpses of sandy bays confirmed we were still on the right path.

We crossed moorland 

and farmland

and everywhere there were bursts of colorful wildflowers.

Originally my plan had been to walk from Alnmouth to Craster, a village two miles further north from Howick, but I couldn't find any accommodation in Craster for just the one night. Luckily a search of places nearby came up with The Old Rectory in Howick which is only a five-minute walk from the coastal path. 

What a find. Howick is a tiny village, most famous for Howick Hall, the ancestral seat of the Earls Grey. The 2nd Earl Grey was Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1830 - 1834 and it is widely believed that Earl Grey tea was named after him.

The Old Rectory was built to provide accommodation for the church at Howick Hall and is believed to date from 1746. It's a beautiful old house, lovingly restored as a country B & B by the owners, Jude Leitch and David Gourdie, who were most welcoming hosts. The bedrooms are large and comfortable, there is a cozy lounge, and a dining room serving not only hearty breakfasts but also evening meals. The latter is a real plus if, like us, you don't have a car. I chose the Butternut Squash Curry which was absolutely delicious. 

The Old Rectory, Howick

If you find yourself looking for accommodation in the area, I highly recommend you check The Old Rectory out. And if camping is more your style, they even have a glamping tent in the garden! 

It was a perfect place to wrap up a great day's walk. 

Mel writes contemporary fiction with a twist of mystery and suspense and the Detective Rigby series.

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